Author Archives: Dill's Greenhouse

Woodland Edge Garden Ideas

Creating a native woodland edge garden is a rewarding way to add beauty, biodiversity, and year-round interest to your landscape. Woodland edge gardens mimic the transitional zone between forest and open areas, providing unique habitat for pollinators, birds, and small wildlife while offering gardeners a naturally layered and dynamic planting scheme. By selecting native species suited to local soil and light conditions, you can cultivate a low-maintenance garden that thrives with minimal intervention.

Understanding the Woodland Edge

A woodland edge is defined by the gradual transition from shaded forest understory to sunny meadow or lawn. This zone often experiences dappled sunlight, partial shade, and moderate moisture, making it ideal for a mix of trees, shrubs, and perennials. Native plants in this zone are adapted to these light and soil conditions, and their layered growth habits—tall trees, medium-size shrubs, and low-growing groundcovers—create a visually appealing, ecologically functional environment.

Choosing the Right Trees

Trees form the backbone of a woodland edge garden, providing structure, shade, and seasonal interest. Consider these native options:

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis): Early spring blossoms, moderate size, and adaptable to partial shade.
Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.): Multi-season appeal with spring flowers, edible summer berries, and stunning fall foliage.
Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum): Provides a rich canopy for shade-loving understory plants and brilliant autumn color.

Planting a mix of trees that vary in bloom time, height, and texture will create visual depth and year-round interest while supporting wildlife diversity.

Selecting Shrubs for Layered Interest

Shrubs add mid-layer structure, attract pollinators, and provide food for birds. Excellent native choices include:

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius): Multi-stemmed shrub with peeling bark, spring blooms, and summer seed heads.
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata): Deciduous holly with bright red berries that persist through winter.
Spicebush (Lindera benzoin): Fragrant leaves when crushed, yellow spring flowers, and berries that attract birds.

Shrubs planted in clusters or drifts help create a naturalistic edge, softening the transition between trees and lower-growing plants.

Groundcovers and Perennials

Low-growing native plants fill the understory, suppress weeds, and provide early-season blooms for pollinators. Consider these:

Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense): Dense, spreading mat that thrives in shade and helps control erosion.
Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia): Attractive spring blooms and spreads to form a lush groundcover.
Creeping Phlox (Phlox subulata): Sun-tolerant option that adds vibrant color along edges.
Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum biflorum): Graceful arching stems with dangling white flowers in spring.

Layering these perennials and groundcovers beneath trees and shrubs provides visual interest, stabilizes soil, and supports a healthy ecosystem.

Tips for a Successful Woodland Edge Garden

Mimic Natural Layers: Plant tall trees first, followed by medium-size shrubs and low-growing perennials and groundcovers.
Consider Soil Moisture: Woodland edges often have variable drainage; amend soil as needed with compost for healthy root establishment.
Plant in Drifts: Group plants in clusters rather than straight lines for a naturalized appearance.
Encourage Wildlife: Include berry-bearing shrubs and nectar-rich perennials to attract birds, pollinators, and beneficial insects.
Maintain with Minimal Intervention: Remove invasive species promptly, mulch lightly with shredded leaves, and water only during extended dry periods.

Seasonal Highlights

Spring: Blooming trees, early perennials, and emerging groundcovers provide color and nectar for pollinators.
Summer: Lush foliage shades understory plants while offering shelter for wildlife.
Fall: Vibrant foliage and berries create visual interest and provide food sources for birds.
Winter: Structural beauty of tree bark, shrub stems, and persistent berries adds texture to the landscape.

Start Your Woodland Edge Garden with Dill’s Greenhouse

A native woodland edge garden is a sustainable and beautiful way to integrate ecological function into your property. With careful selection of trees, shrubs, and perennials, you can enjoy year-round interest while supporting pollinators, birds, and beneficial insects. At Dill’s Greenhouse, we provide a curated selection of native plants and expert advice to help you design a woodland edge that is both visually stunning and environmentally supportive.

Spotting Early Spring Natives

Spring is a magical time in the garden, signaling renewal and the emergence of native plants that have weathered the winter dormancy. Recognizing these early bloomers and foliage can help gardeners plan for succession planting, provide early food for pollinators, and ensure a cohesive, thriving landscape. Understanding their characteristics and growth habits is key to identifying and nurturing them successfully.

Understanding Native Plant Emergence

Native plants have evolved to respond to local seasonal cues such as temperature, soil moisture, and day length. In early spring, many perennials, shrubs, and trees break dormancy with subtle signals—tiny shoots, swollen buds, or early flowers. Recognizing these cues allows gardeners to provide appropriate care, such as early mulching, protective watering, or frost precautions.

Key Identification Tips

Bud Characteristics: Look for swollen, often brightly colored or fuzzy buds on trees and shrubs. Species such as witch hazel, spicebush, and redbud exhibit distinct early swelling before leaf emergence.
Ground-Level Shoots: Early-emerging perennials like bloodroot, trillium, and Virginia bluebells send up basal shoots that can be distinguished from weeds by their smooth, often glossy texture.
Flowering Before Leafing: Some natives bloom before their foliage fully develops. Hepatica, bloodroot, and spring beauties are prime examples, providing nectar for early pollinators.
Leaf Shape and Texture: Young leaves often have unique shapes or colors. For example, mayapple emerges with umbrella-shaped leaves, while jack-in-the-pulpit produces a distinctive hooded foliage. Observing these traits can confirm species identity before flowering occurs.
Soil and Microclimate Clues: Many early natives prefer specific conditions. Moist woodland areas may host trillium and wild ginger, while drier, well-drained slopes encourage wild columbine and native geraniums.

Observing Growth Patterns

Native plants often emerge in a predictable sequence, from the earliest ephemerals to later perennials. Maintaining a garden journal or photographing early growth can help track which species emerge first, assisting with future landscape planning and providing insight into seasonal variations.

Encouraging Early Growth

While native plants are adapted to local conditions, gardeners can support healthy early emergence by:

Applying a thin layer of mulch in late winter to moderate soil temperature.
Ensuring adequate moisture without waterlogging.
Avoiding early fertilization that may stimulate excessive tender growth susceptible to frost damage.

Benefits of Recognizing Early Natives

Identifying early-emerging native plants provides multiple advantages. These plants often:

Supply essential nectar and pollen for emerging pollinators.
Establish a foundation for layered plantings that provide continuous interest throughout the season.
Serve as indicators of soil health and microclimate suitability for other plantings.

By paying attention to subtle cues and familiarizing yourself with native species’ early growth traits, you can foster a thriving, biodiverse garden that supports wildlife and celebrates seasonal change.

Dill’s Greenhouse encourages gardeners to take a closer look each spring and discover the first signs of life that herald the season ahead.

March Garden Momentum

March signals the true start of the growing season. As nature wakes up—buds swelling and daylight stretching—it’s the perfect time to set the stage for a thriving garden. Use this early spring checklist to help your landscape transition smoothly into the active months ahead.

Inspect and Tidy Garden Beds

Winter often shifts plants and leaves behind debris.

Remove Debris: Clear fallen branches and leftover leaves that may harbor pests.
Avoid Compaction: Steer clear of walking on thawing soil to prevent damaging its structure.

Prune Shrubs and Trees

Now is the ideal time to shape up your woody plants before new growth emerges.

Prune Now: Fruit trees, roses, and summer-blooming shrubs. Remove dead wood and cross-branching stems.
Wait to Prune: Spring bloomers like lilac, forsythia, and magnolia should only be pruned after they flower.

Divide Perennials

Enhance plant vigor by dividing overcrowded clumps as soon as growth appears.

Target Plants: Hostas, daylilies, ornamental grasses, and coneflowers benefit greatly from division now.

Prepare the Soil

Healthy soil is the foundation of a resilient garden.

Amend Soil: Once the ground is workable (not muddy), mix in compost or organic matter to boost nutrient content and moisture retention.

Start Seeds Indoors

Give cool-season crops a head start under grow lights.

Sow Now: Lettuce, kale, broccoli, snapdragons, and petunias. Always check your local frost date guidelines for timing.

Maintain Garden Tools

Sharp, clean tools prevent the spread of disease and make work easier.

Tool Care: Sharpen pruners, oil wooden handles, and disinfect cutting surfaces.

Apply Dormant Oil

Control overwintering pests before buds break.

Pest Management: Spray fruit trees and roses with dormant oil to manage aphids, mites, and scale. Ensure temperatures remain above freezing during application.

Refresh Mulch and Edges

Mulch moderates soil temperature and suppresses weeds.

Mulching: Fluff existing mulch or add fresh material, keeping it away from plant stems.
Edging: Redefine bed edges now for a polished look all season.

Plan Your Planting

Map out your garden expansions to support biodiversity.

Biodiversity: Incorporate native plants, herbs, and pollinator-friendly flowers to enhance habitat health.

Visit Dill’s Greenhouse

Stock up on essential supplies as spring progresses.

Shop Local: Find seeds, soil amendments, and early-blooming shrubs. Our staff is ready to help connect you with successful local growing practices.

Early spring preparation sets the rhythm for the year. With thoughtful planning, your garden will reward you with vibrant blooms and productive harvests in the months ahead.

Early Native Perennials That Shine

Top Early-Blooming Native Perennials for Your Pollinator GardenAs winter fades and the days grow longer, the first hungry pollinators emerge in search of nectar. Unfortunately, many landscapes are still waking up, leaving a critical food gap for early-season bees and hummingbirds.

At Dill’s Greenhouse, we believe in gardening with a purpose. By incorporating early-blooming native perennials, you can provide essential resources for local wildlife while adding a splash of color to your spring landscape. Here are seven of our favorite “early risers” to get your garden buzzing.

7 Essential Early Natives

Wild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Known for its nodding, lantern-like red and yellow blossoms, this woodland favorite is a magnet for returning hummingbirds. It thrives in part shade and blooms in late spring when few other sources are available.
Golden Alexander (Zizia aurea): This reliable perennial offers bright yellow umbels that attract small bees and wasps. It’s also a vital host plant for Black Swallowtail butterfly larvae, making it a dual-purpose powerhouse for your garden.
Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica): A classic spring ephemeral, these stunning trumpet-shaped flowers transition from pink buds to brilliant blue blooms. They naturalize beautifully in moist, shaded areas, providing early nectar before fading back in summer.
Foxglove Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis): Adding upright structure to the garden, these white, tubular flowers are perfect for long-tongued bees. It’s highly adaptable, drought-tolerant, and supports specialist species like the Penstemon miner bee.
Wild Geranium (Geranium maculatum): One of the most reliable natives for shade, Wild Geranium produces soft lavender-pink blooms. It is an excellent nectar source for bumble bees and hoverflies in woodland settings.
Prairie Smoke (Geum triflorum): Famous for its pink, nodding flowers that turn into feathery seed plumes, this low-growing plant offers great texture. It provides early-season pollen for ground-nesting bees.
Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia): With airy white flowers, Foamflower is an ideal ground cover for shady spots. It spreads gently and offers long-lasting blooms for hungry insects.

Design Tips for a Pollinator Haven

Plant in Drifts: Grouping at least 3–5 plants of the same species helps pollinators forage more efficiently than single, isolated plants.
Ensure Continuous Blooms: Pair these early bloomers with summer and fall favorites like Coneflower and Goldenrod to provide food all season long.
Leave the Leaves: Don’t be too tidy! Leaf litter and hollow stems provide essential nesting habitat for the insects you are trying to attract.

Start Your Season with Us!

Ready to transform your spring landscape into an ecological hub? Whether you are starting from scratch or filling in gaps, we are here to help. Visit Dill’s Greenhouse today to explore our selection of regionally appropriate native plants and get expert advice on the best species for your space.

Cold Soil Vegetable Favorites

It happens every year around March. The days get a little longer, the birds start singing, and you get that undeniable itch to get out in the garden. But while your spirit is ready, the ground often isn’t.

Early spring soil is tricky. It is cold, damp, and slow to warm up. If you plant heat-loving crops like tomatoes or peppers now, they will likely rot before they even sprout. However, you don’t have to wait until May to start growing food. Nature has provided us with an incredible lineup of vegetables that actually prefer the chill of March and April. By choosing the right crops and using a few smart techniques, you can have a lush, productive garden weeks before your neighbors.

Why Cold Soil Isn’t a Dealbreaker

For many seeds, cold soil is a “do not enter” sign. It slows down germination and prevents roots from taking up nutrients. But cool-season crops are different. These hardy plants are biologically programmed to wake up when soil temperatures are as low as 40–50°F. In fact, many of them taste sweeter and have a crisper texture when grown in the cool air of early spring rather than the heat of summer.

Top Picks for March and April Sowing

If you are ready to brave the brisk air, here are the best vegetables to direct sow right now:

Peas: There is nothing quite like the taste of a garden-fresh pea. These are the classic early spring crops. They are incredibly hardy and can go into the ground as soon as the soil can be worked in March. Give them a trellis to climb, and you will be snacking in no time.
Spinach: This leafy green is a champion of the cold. It thrives in cool, moist soil and germinates quickly. Sow it in March for baby greens that are tender and sweet.
Radishes: If you want instant gratification, plant radishes. They are fast-growing and aren’t bothered by cold soil. You can often harvest them just a few weeks after planting in April.
Lettuce: Cool soil is actually preferred for lettuce germination. Plant a mix of varieties for a beautiful and tasty salad bowl. Just be ready to harvest before the summer heat makes them bitter.
Carrots: While they can be a bit slow to wake up in cold soil (sometimes taking up to three weeks), early spring carrots are worth the wait. The cool temperatures concentrate sugars in the roots, making them incredibly sweet.
Beets: These earthy gems tolerate light frosts well. Sow them in April when the soil has warmed slightly to around 50°F. Don’t forget that you can eat the greens while you wait for the roots to bulb up!
Kale and Chard: These are the workhorses of the vegetable garden. Both are extremely cold-tolerant. Chard might take a moment to get going, but once it establishes, it will provide harvests well into the warmer months.

Tips for Success in Chilly Weather

Gardening in March and April requires a slightly different approach than summer gardening. Here is how to ensure success:

Do the Squeeze Test: Before you dig, grab a handful of soil and squeeze it. If it drips water or forms a tight, sticky ball, it is too wet to work. Digging in wet, cold soil can ruin its structure. Wait until it crumbles loosely in your hand.
Boost the Heat: You can cheat a little by using row covers or cloches. These lightweight fabrics act like a mini-greenhouse, trapping heat near the soil surface and protecting tender seedlings from those surprise late frosts.
Don’t Bury Them Deep: In cold soil, seeds often do better when planted slightly shallower than usual, as the surface warms up faster during the day.
Keep it Coming: Don’t plant everything at once. Use succession planting by sowing a new row of lettuce or radishes every two weeks. This ensures you have a continuous harvest rather than one giant glut of vegetables.

Spring is a time of renewal, and there is no better way to celebrate than by coaxing life from the cold earth. So grab your seeds and get out there—your future salads are waiting!

Feeding the Birds

When a bird’s natural plant food has waned or withered away in late winter, a few well-placed feeders can entice a feathered friend to stay nearby. There are four basic types of feeders, but the type of feeder and food it’s filled with will determine which birds will visit. Which do you want in your yard?

Feeder Types and the Birds They Attract

While birds will visit a variety of different feeders, the best options for winter birds are…

Tray / Platform Feeders
A tray or platform feeder with low sides and a wide, open base placed one to three feet above the ground will lure ground-feeding birds like juncos, towhees and mourning doves. Grouse and quail may also visit this type of feeder, and these feeders are ideal for offering food to large flocks of birds.
House Hopper Feeders
Hung from a tree or hook or mounted on a pole, “house” style feeders with seed hoppers and perches on the side will usually entice grosbeaks, cardinals and jays, as well as sparrows and finches. These feeders help keep seed dry and can hold a larger quantity of seed so refills are not as frequent.
Tube Feeders
Long, cylindrical tube feeders suspended in air will bring in an array of small birds, including finches, titmice, nuthatches, siskins, redpolls and chickadees. These feeders may have either mesh-like sides where birds can easily cling, or they may have multiple perches to accommodate more birds. Sock-style feeders are also popular.
Suet Feeders
A cage-like feeder that holds a cake of rich, fatty suet is a bird magnet for woodpeckers, wrens, titmice, nuthatches, titmice, mockingbirds and jays. A standard suet cage can hold just one cake and can be hung from a pole or branch. Larger suet feeders may hold multiple cakes, and some suet feeders are even designed as logs or other shapes to hold suet plugs or balls.

Best Winter Bird Foods

Birds will seldom drop or pick out unwanted seeds if you fill your feeder with only one type of seed rather than a generic mix. Black oil sunflower seeds are the most widely preferred, though white millet is popular for smaller finches, sparrows and ground-feeding birds. A tube feeder containing Nyjer (thistle) seeds will whet the appetite of goldfinches, siskins or redpolls. Jays, chickadees and juncos love peanuts or cracked corn as a treat in a tray feeder. Suet is another fine treat that offers great calories to keep winter birds healthy.

No matter which type of bird feeder you offer or how you fill it, you are sure to enjoy the company of a hungry winter flock. Keep the feeder filled and clean, and the birds will continue to visit all winter long.

Caring for Forced Bulbs

Potted tulips, crocus, hyacinths and daffodils add color to dull, dreary winter months. With proper care, these spring treasures can give you weeks of enjoyment long before their outdoor cousins poke through the soil, bringing a burst of color and life to your home even when winter is in full force. Stop by our greenhouse today and pick up some forced bulbs to brighten your home!

To Care for Forced Bulbs

While outdoor bulbs require are remarkably low-maintenance and will return year after year looking better than ever, forced bulbs take some extra care to keep looking their best while they’re in bloom. To make the most of your forced bulbs…

Soil should be kept moist, but not wet. Do not allow the plants to stand in excess water, as this can cause rot that will destroy the plant. Be sure soil has proper drainage to keep excess water away from the roots.

Place the plants in indirect light and keep them as cool as possible. The cooler the temperature, the longer the bloom period will be. Ideal temperatures are 55-60 degrees during the day and 40-50 degrees at night. The pot may be kept in the refrigerator at night if necessary, or move it to an unheated garage or basement to chill out overnight. Placing pots near a window and away from heating vents can help keep them cooler.

When the flowers fade, cut off the flower stems near the soil level. Take care not to cut into the bulb, however, as the damage could impact any future blooming. Do not cut away foliage – it will continue to add nutrition to the bulb’s storage. Instead, allow the foliage to remain intact until it withers naturally, whether it is still in a pot or has been planted outdoors before wilting.

Bulbs cannot typically be forced indoors a second time. Instead, transplant the bulbs into the garden in the spring with a handful of bone meal in the hole and in a suitable location and soil type for the flower. Allow the foliage at least 6-8 weeks in the ground to gather energy for next spring.

Many forced bulbs will not rebloom immediately when planted outdoors, but with patience and good care, they may recover from being forced and could become an integral part of your spring landscape just as they were part of your indoor landscape in winter.

Anti-Desiccants: Why, What, and When

You’ve removed late-autumn weeds, layered on the mulch, pruned appropriately, possibly even covered or wrapped your plants – so why do some still die in the winter, despite all your well-meaning efforts?

Many plants die during winter because they dry out, or desiccate. As temperatures drop, the ground freezes and plant roots cannot take water from the soil, no matter how much snow may fall. This causes the plant to use stored water from the leaves and stems as part of the transpiration process, during which water exits the plant through the leaves. If the sun is shining or the wind is blowing, transpiration increases and more water exits the leaves. If no water is available and transpiration continues, the plant will soon die. Because evergreen plants do not drop their leaves, they are especially susceptible to this death.

Preventing Desiccation

How can you help your plants stay well-hydrated through the frozen drought of winter? The first step is to remember healthy plants in the summer survive the hardships of winter far better than sickly or stressed plants. Through the spring, summer and fall, you should always be on the lookout for signs of pests, diseases and damage, and take all necessary steps to keep your plants thriving.

Second, be sure to water well even when temperatures begin dropping below freezing. Later, if the ground thaws, water before the ground refreezes. Water slowly to provide a deep drink without waterlogging the roots, however, so they are not damaged by ice.

The third step is to use an anti-desiccant, also called an anti-transpirant, to reduce the moisture loss from the leaves and needles. Because broadleaf evergreens such as boxwood, aucuba, holly, rhododendron, many laurels, Japanese skimmia and leucothoe do not drop their leaves, they are especially vulnerable to winter death. Using a product such as Wilt-Pruf to reduce transpiration by protecting the pores will save many broadleaf evergreens.

When using any horticultural product, be sure to check the label and follow all instructions properly. Some conifers such as cedar, cypress, juniper and pine may benefit from these products. However, be sure to read the instructions to prevent burning specific conifers. Also, do not use on “waxy” blue conifers, such as blue spruce, which already have an oily protective film on the nettles.

Here are a few reminders to get the best protection from an anti-desiccant:

Plan to apply when day temperatures begin dropping below 50⁰ Fahrenheit. Apply when temperatures are above freezing on a dry day with no rain or snow anticipated within 24 hours. This allows the product to thoroughly dry. Spraying in freezing temperatures will cause plant damage.
Do not spray conifers until thoroughly dormant, generally in late winter. This prevents trapping moisture in the needles which could burst when frozen.
Generously apply to dry leaves and needles. Don’t forget the undersides. Spray from several angles to ensure complete coverage.
Because the anti-desiccant will break down in light and warmth, reapply in late winter on a dry day when temperatures are above freezing for at least 24 hours.

Beyond Winter Drought

Other than protecting your landscape evergreens from winter drought, there are other uses for anti-desiccants. Many gardeners use it to protect newly transplanted shrubs from drying winds and sunshine as they settle in. It also provides protection to tender bulbs going into storage. A quick spray in early winter protects rose canes and hydrangea stems. Spraying onto live or cut Christmas trees and carved pumpkins slows the drying process, making them last longer for greater holiday enjoyment.

To answer your questions, or to choose the best product for your landscape plants, come in to discuss anti-desiccants with one of our friendly and knowledgeable staff members. Together, we can reduce the number of plants you lose to the dryness of winter and keep your garden beautiful and healthy.

Reaching New Heights with Tall Perennials

Did your garden seem to come up short last year? Were there areas where some height could have added excitement, texture and pizzazz to your landscape? If so, grab your garden journal and make some notes! We have an excellent list of perennials coming this spring and it’s sure to include the colors, heights and types of plants to add a vertical punch to your garden. Our top picks include…

Of course, this is just a partial listing of taller perennials available in the coming months. Delivery trucks filled with beautiful, healthy and vibrant plants arrive nearly every day. Make your wish-list and come on in to see us on a regular basis. That way, you’ll have the best selection of our incoming beauties and can choose the perfect tall plants to add a vertical lift to your garden

Getting Tools Ready for Spring

Did you clean, sharpen and store your gardening tools properly last fall when you stopped gardening?

Hopefully, you did, but if you didn’t, it’s not too late. Spring is just around the corner, but there’s still time to get these essential chores done and be ready to jump in to all your gardening and landscape work when spring arrives.

Assemble Your Tools
Round up the shovels, hoes, rakes and picks. Gather the hand tools such as pruners, loppers, saws, cultivators, weeders and all those little special gadgets you use. If they are all in one place, you can clean and care for them assembly-line style to make the task easier and less overwhelming.
Washing Tools
Fill a bucket or sink with sudsy water. Combine some elbow grease with some rags, a stiff wire brush, steel wool and small toothbrush and wash off all accumulated mud and dirt. Remove sap from pruners and loppers using rubbing alcohol, turpentine, paint thinner or other solvent. Be sure to clean the handles. Towel dry each tool carefully.
Handle Care
How do the wooden handles look and feel? To prevent splinters, lightly sand and apply a protective coating of boiled linseed oil. (Boiled, not raw, as raw won’t dry.) This is also a good time to apply brightly colored rubberized paint to hand tool handles. Not only will this improve the grip but makes it easier to find the tools when Ieft in the garden. If any handles are so worn or damaged that they need to be completely replaced, this is a good time to do so.
Remove Rust
Get the rust off using sandpaper, steel wool and/or a wire brush. For difficult rust, you may need to attach a wire wheel to your drill. Safety googles are necessary eye protection when using a power tool for cleaning. Afterwards, coat the metal with a thin layer of oil such as WD-40, machine or 3-in-One oil to prevent new rust from forming.
TIP: To prevent rust, make an “oil bucket” and keep where you store your tools.
- Half-fill a 5-gallon bucket with coarse sand such as builder’s sand
- Pour in a quart of oil (used motor oil is fine)
- Mix until all of the sand is lightly moistened
- After using a garden tool, plunge the tool into the bucket several times to thoroughly remove soil and thinly coat the metal surface with oil
Sharpen Blades and Edges
Check the edges and moving parts of the tools. To sharpen shovels, spades and hoes, fasten in a vise and use a hand file to restore the same original bevel angle, usually between 40-70 degrees. Use a fine grit grinding stone along the back edge of the tool to remove the burr created by the file. Wipe the metal surface with machine oil. Don’t forget to sharpen hand pruners and loppers as well, and use machine oil to lubricate the moving parts of different tools. Note: If you aren’t equipped to sharpen your tools yourself, take them to an appropriate expert to be sure they’re sharpened safely and correctly.
Check Tool Storage
Now that you tools are ready for work, where will you keep them until spring arrives? Check hooks, stands, toolboxes and other gear where you keep your tools and be sure they are stored safely and securely while still being easy to find and reach whenever you need them.

Now, you – and your tools – are ready for spring.

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